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  • kolorskemes: @ATJbeer russia is a pretty big place. I might be able to get a suggestion for Moscow. I have friends there. I'll let you know.
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World / Europe / Russia / Moscow

Its post-Soviet hedonism is notorious, but Moscow can be frustrating for first-timers. Head off the beaten track to find the real city, with its historic monuments, classic art, and working class heroes hidden among the glitz and neon of Putin's new Russia.

Currency

Ruble (RUB)

Visa Requirements

Visas are essential for all US, EU and commonwealth citizens and must be purchased before travel.

Language

Russian

Timezone

GMT +3 (+4 from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October)

Weather

Moscow weather can be extreme, from -10°C in January to 35°C or above in July. Spring and autumn are moderate and dry

Dialling Code

00 7 495 or 499

Electricity

220V. European two-pin plugs are standard

Health and Safety

Ambulance and emergency services are free but very basic, making comprehensive travel and medical insurance cover essential.

Flights to Moscow arrive at Domodedovo Airport, situated 14 miles southeast of the city. The official taxi desk charges 1,900RUB: but with rush-hour journeys of over two hours, smart travellers take the train. Aeroexpress (150RUB) operates direct services to Paveletskaya metro station every hour (every 30 minutes at peak times), with a journey time of 50 minutes.

The Museums of the Moscow Kremlin

The Museums of the Moscow Kremlin (The Kremlin, Moscow, 007 495 203 0349/202 3776): Its Assumption Cathedral holds the throne of Ivan the Terrible, and the Archangel Cathedral the graves of the Romanov Tsars: but the real treasures (including Faberge eggs and the gems of the Diamond Fund) are in the Armoury, and tickets sell out fast. Bypass the tour groups and go after lunch.

Sandunovsky Bani

Sandunovsky Bani (Neglinnaya Ulitsa d. 14 bldgs. 3-7, 007 495 625 4631): These are Moscow's oldest sauna and steam baths and the most ornate, complete with a marble-pillared swimming pool in the men's section. While a two-hour communal session costs as little as 600RUB, for real luxury book your own private banya - complete with pool - from 2,000RUB.

The Tagansky Protected Command Point

The Tagansky Protected Command Point: Discover the full extent of the city's Cold War neurosis at this 1950s former communications centre. Built to house thousands of the military top brass for up to three months, it lies 65 metres below ground. Guided tours include films covering its construction, and the Russian take on the history of the Cold War.

Quick Lunch - Cafe Pushkin

Designed in the style of a 19th century townhouse Cafe Pushkin (Tverskoi Bulvar d. 26a 007 495 739 0033) remains a magnet for the business elite, and serves some of the city's best Russian cuisine.

Top Table - Jeroboam

With a three-starred Michelin chef, the Jeroboam restaurant at the Ritz hotel (Tverskaya Ulitsa d. 3, 007 495 225 8888) sets the standard in gourmet dining.

Cheap Eat - Goodmans

Escape this frenetic city for the English-country calm of Goodmans (Tverskaya Ulitsa d. 23, 007 495 775 9888). It serves steaks, burgers, salads, and bargain-priced weekday lunches and the walled garden is open in summer.

On Business - Hotel Ulanskaya

Recently refurbished, with western-standard décor throughout, the Hotel Ulanskaya is one of the city's few reasonably priced business hotels.
Book now

Lap Of Luxury - Metropol Hotel

Once home to the Bolshevik Revolutionary Committee, the stained-glass ceilings and fin de sciecle luxury of the Metropol Hotel have been expertly restored.
Book now

Cheap Sleep - Sovietsky Hotel

The Sovietsky Hotel is one of the city's most historic venues - north of town but steps from the metro - in a meticulously preserved Stalinist building, with half-price rates at weekends.
Book now

Coffee And Chat - Le Pain Quotidien

Moscow's business community gathers at Le Pain Quotidien (Kamergersky Pereulok d. 6, 007 495 937 7742) for French home-cooking from 7am.

Formal Presentation - Baltschug Kempinski

The Baltschug Kempinski (Ulitsa Balchug d. 1, 007 495 287 2000) offers Kremlin views and the most competent event management team in town.

Evening Drinks - GQ Bar

Drink cool cocktails with the “elitny” business crowd at GQ Bar (Ulitsa Balchug d. 5, 007 495 956 7775), open round the clock.

General Etiquette

It never does to generalise but it's still true that most Russians are proud, free-spirited and don't like being bound by rules. They are generous and passionate and may well express themselves forcefully. Their respect for equality predates Communism as for centuries the agricultural commune was at the heart of Russian life.

Always dress well in Russia. They will think the less of you if you're scruffy. Shake hands firmly and maintain eye contact. Don't worry about clichés of hugs and kisses. These things will only come later when you are on good terms with your counterpart.

Russian names come in three parts: the given name, followed by the patronymic (version of father's name), formed by adding -vich or -ovich for a man, -avna or -ovna for a woman. After that comes the surname. So Ivan Alexandrovich Borodkin is Ivan, son of Alexander, of the family Borodkin. Formally, people use all three names. You only use first name and patronymic on their own when you become a friend.

If you are invited back to a Russian's home for a meal, take a small present. Wine is preferable to vodka. Or take flowers - in odd numbers (and never yellow ones, which may signify displeasure). Take off your outdoor shoes in the hall. You will be given slippers for indoor wear by your hosts. At the meal, wait to be invited to start. Don't put your elbows on the table and leave a little food on your plate when you've had enough.

Out and about, don't be shocked by surface rudeness, particularly from shop assistants, doormen and minor officials. If you remain polite but firm, they will soon come round. At other times Russians can be quite genteel. The word nyekulturny was traditionally used to describe uncouth behaviour and covered anything from keeping your hands in your pockets to laughing too loudly or swearing. Such strictures are a bit outmoded now but you should, for example, always check your coat into the cloakroom (garderob) at a restaurant as hanging it over your chair would be regarded as bad manners.

When it comes to conversation, avoid discussing the fascinating but sensitive subjects of oligarchs, corruption until you know your hosts extremely well. Sport, holidays, your positive impressions of their country and its gorgeous landscape or architecture, funny things about your culture are, as always, the safest topics.

Business Etiquette

Business cards are important. It's a good idea to have one side translated into Cyrillic text. Include all titles and degrees as Russians will be impressed. Follow the basic rule of punctuality abroad: turn up on time, but don't be upset or offended if your counterpart is late. Many Russian companies will offer visiting businesspeople a guide to show them round and help them with their Russian.

Meetings will begin with chat about general subjects but Russians are essentially transactional and they don't need to establish a strong personal connection before doing business. However, when you do build up such a relationship it's well worth while maintaining it and keeping up contact for your return. Russians talk about dusha (soul) and value good friendship.

Once you get down to discussions, don't be surprised if there are displays of bad temper or even walkouts. This may all be part of normal negotiating strategy here. Your counterparts may even threaten to end all dealings with you in an attempt to get what they want. Kompromiss (compromise) is regarded as weakness. At the end of a meeting you may well be asked to sign a protokol, a document listing what was discussed. This is not a contract.

Russian businesses have in general a hierarchical structure and authority comes from the top. As a visitor it's important to recognise and respect this.

Unusual business-related customs

When business is over, most Russians enjoy a drink. If you're invited on to the bar, it will be much appreciated if you join in. Your best excuse not to imbibe will have to be medical. Vodka is drunk in one go, not sipped. Glasses are filled on the table, not raised to the bottle. Once a bottle is opened, it is bad luck not to finish it. So make sure to eat plenty of zakuski (snacks) to soak up the alcohol. There are likely to be many toasts. Learning one in Russian will always go down well. Za zdorovie! (‘Your health') is the normal toast. If you want to impress you could try the traditional second toast, Za zhenschin! (‘To the women').

Your hosts will probably be proud of their hard heads, and may well try to get you drunk. Lining your stomach with fat (a glass of milk or a knob of butter) before you go out may be a wise strategy.

General business information

Business hours are generally 9am to 6pm, Monday through Friday. There are national holidays on 1 and 7 January (Orhtodox Christmas), 23 February (Military or Men's Day), 8 March (Women's Day), 1 May (Labour Day), 9 May (Victory Day).

Email and fax are the best ways to communicate as the post can be unreliable. Russians are taught English at school and many speak it well and the country boasts a very high rate of literacy.

International dialling code: +7

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