World / Europe / Azerbaijan / Baku

Azerbaijan is a Turkic culture, the great majority of people being Azeri and speaking the Turkic language Azerbaijani. A good proportion of the population also speak Russian fluently. This is a mainly (Shiite) Muslim culture and Azerbaijani customs reflect this, though in a fairly modified form. Alcohol, for example, is widely available and used. Men greet men with a - sometimes lingering - handshake and often a kiss and women greet women with a hug and a kiss but cross-gender greetings are not so tactile. Male visitors greeting women should always wait for them to extend a hand. Firm eye contact is important and regarded as a sign of sincerity. Revealing clothes should be avoided by women and shorts by men.

You are likely to be introduced by your surname and appropriate title. But in the normal course of conversation, you may use first names of your Azeri counterparts, adding the word Muallim (Sir) or Hanim (Ma'am).

The family is still the centre of life in Azerbaijan. Traditionally, the hoj (clan) would be large and extended. Now units are smaller but loyalties remain similar. The society is hierarchical and serious respect is paid to older people. Prominent elders are known as agh sakkal (white bearded ones) and may be called in to resolve disputes.

Business dress is conservative so wear a suit and tie or equivalent. If possible, meetings should be arranged well in advance, by means of a letter setting out clearly who you are and what you propose. Translating this and subsequent correspondence into Azerbaijani makes for clarity and will also ensure you stand out. Offer your business card with your right hand and take time to note and comment on your counterpart's card before putting it carefully away. Shake hands with everyone present, both as you arrive and leave.

As in Turkey, the establishing of a personal relationship is central to doing business in Azerbaijan. Enjoy the process, as your counterpart gets to know you over tea (and sweets) or a meal. Then take your time before getting down to business but be prepared for tough bargaining when the time comes. ‘Keeping face', your own and others, is important here.

The working week follows the Western pattern, Monday to Friday, 9 am to 6pm. Though Friday is the Muslim holy day, offices are still open. In addition to the usual Muslim holidays, Azerbaijanis celebrate Gurban Bayrami (Festival of Sacrifice) over four or five days. Following the Islamic calendar, these dates vary each year. Azerbaijan also has public holidays on 1 and 8 January, 20 January (National Mourning Day) 20 and 21 March (Noruz Bayrami), 28 May, 15 and 26 June, 18 October, 12 and 17 November and 31 December. Hotels in Baku are often booked out during the Caspian Oil and Gas Show at the end of May.

Credit cards are not widely accepted. Bring post-1990 US dollars in good condition, but don't carry large amounts of cash on your person, as foreigners have been the subject of criminal attacks in recent years. Take taxis with blue licence plates.