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World / Asia / Kazakhstan / Almaty

Obscure, exotic and staggeringly beautiful, a decade-long oil boom has transformed Kazakhstan's former capital into a thriving metropolis. Find Soviet memorabilia in its heaving bazaars, see the city lights from a cable car, or relax in one of its many bathhouses.

Currency

Tenge (KZT)

Visa Requirements

Visas are essential for all US, EU and Commonwealth citizens and must be purchased before travel.

Language

Kazakh, Russian

Timezone

GMT +5

Weather

Summer temperatures can reach 30°C or above, and can drop to -10°C in January. Moderate temperatures in May and June make this the best time to visit

Dialling Code

00 7 (followed by the city code 727)

Electricity

220V. European two-pin plugs are standard

Health and Safety

Ambulance and emergency services are free but very basic, making comprehensive travel and medical insurance cover essential

Flights to Almaty arrive at the recently refurbished Almaty International Airport, situated 11 miles north of the city. Buses will get you into the centre cheaply - and the upmarket hotels operate their own shuttles - but with a half hour taxi journey costing around 6,900KZT (40 Euro), you might prefer to travel in (relative) style.

The Arasan Baths

The Arasan Baths (Tulebayeva St 78, 007 327 272 4671): Set in a five-storey domed building, this traditional bath house has Russian (steam), Finnish (dry) and Turkish baths - complete with heated stone platforms at differing heights. There's also a domed plunge-pool for cooling down, and private banya for the decadent or the shy.

The Kok Tobe Cable Car

The Kok Tobe Cable Car (Prospect Dostyk 104A, 007 327 320 1201): Take in the full city panorama from the Palace of the Republic up to the 372m telecoms tower by cable car, which operates until midnight (and into the early hours at weekends). Do what the locals do and stop for beer and shashlik at the open-air viewing platform.

The Green Bazaar

The Green Bazaar (Zhibek Zholy St 53): This colourful market offers exotic sun-ripened fruit and vegetables from Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, as well as souvenirs, bric-a-brac and a staggering array of household goods. If the bustle and chaos here doesn't faze you, you're probably ready for the Barakholka Chinese market on the outskirts of town.

Quick Lunch - Dastarkhan

Renowned for the city's best Kazakh and Russian cuisine, Dastarkhan (Shevchenko St, 75, 007 372 272 1317) offers a dedicated high-speed service lunchtime menu.

Top Table - Bellagio

Head out towards the Medeu ski resort for world class Italian cooking at the city's most exclusive restaurant, Bellagio (Gronaya St 197, 007 327 250 2500). You'll be in good company: previous guests have included Kazakhstan President Nursultan Nazarbayev, Vladimir Putin and Bill Clinton.

Cheap Eat - Le Jardin

Le Jardin (Saptayev St 10, 007 327 262 7683) Great value classic French cooking means you'll find budget travellers amidst the business clientele here.

On Business - Holiday Inn

The new Holiday Inn, situated in the main business district, offers a well-known brand of western creature comforts, a gym and Wi-Fi.
Book now

Lap Of Luxury - InterContinental

The InterContinental has all the five-star opulence you'd expect, but it's the details (exotic dried fruit in your room on arrival) that make this hotel stand out. Spend at least one afternoon wallowing in its Ankara Spa.
Book now

Cheap Sleep - Ambassador Hotel

It gets pretty lively at times, but the Ambassador Hotel is a well-priced Turkish-run venue with Internet access and room service, ideally situated in the centre of town.
Book now

Coffee And Chat - John's Coffee

John's Coffee, located in the main business district (Saptayev St 11a, 007 727 292 5076), keeps the workers in coffee and pastries from 8am.

Formal Presentation - Belvedere Grill Room

Host a private meeting over lunch with stunning views from the InterContinental's rooftop Belvedere Grill Room (Zheltoksan Street 181, 007 727 250 5000).

Evening Drinks - Line Brew

The after-work crowd gathers for Belgian beer at Line Brew (Furmanov St, 187, 007 327 250 7985). It's one of the most popular watering holes in the city.

General Etiquette

The vast territory of Kazakhstan is populated by Kazakhs and Russians but over 100 nationalities are represented in Kazakhstan. Kazakh and Russian languages are spoken, Kazakh being the official language, though ethnic Kazakhs are only just in the majority. Kazakhstani is the term to use for anyone resident in the country, regardless of their background. You should only use the word ‘Kazakh' to describe ethnic Kazakhs.

Men greet each other with a handshake, usually rather gentle, and often with both hands. Most Kazakhstanis are Muslim so be sensitive with cross-gender handshakes. A visiting man should wait for a woman to extend her hand and a visiting woman should not take offence if a man withholds his hand. Though observant Muslims do not drink, alcohol is widely available and used. Wait until invited before using someone's first name. Though many names are of Arabic origin, Russian-style patronymics are common.

This is still a very hierarchical society, where both important people and elders are treated with great respect. In turn, those in charge are expected to make decisions for the group they control.

Kazakhstanis are very hospitable people. You may be invited home for tea (chai) and bread (regarded as sacred) or a full meal. With chai, the custom is that the cup is only filled half-way; a full cup is a signal that a guest should leave. Leaving a little food on your plate indicates that you have finished eating. It is polite to bring a small gift, such as pastries or sweets, though not alcohol.

Business Etiquette

Business dress is conservative wear a dark suit and tie or equivalent. There is no special etiquette around business cards, though they should be treated with respect and always include your titles and qualifications. Ideally they should be translated into Russian on one side. In this hierarchical society, your card is important in establishing your credentials and status.

As in other countries in the area, the establishing of a personal relationship is central to doing business in Kazakhstan. Enjoy the process as your counterpart gets to know you over tea (and sweets) or a meal.

At a meeting, shake hands with everyone present, both when you arrive and leave. People are likely to be seated according to importance, on both sides. ‘Keeping face' is a key consideration here so Kazakhstanis may go out of their way to be tactful when telling you things. However, behaviour in meetings and during negotiations may be surprisingly volatile. Don't expect meetings to end at any set time and make sure not to organise ‘back to back' meetings.

Unusual business-related customs

By old Kazakh tradition, an important guest visiting a rural area may have a sheep or goat slaughtered in their honour. The sheep's head is the most special part and the meat is distributed in a particular way, where the parts all have meanings. An ear is given to those who are supposed to listen, the tongue to those who should hold their tongue and so on. Don't worry: the eyes are generally given to the host's best friends, with the idea that they should watch over the guest.

General business information

The working week follows the Western pattern, Monday to Friday, 9am to 6pm. Though Friday is the Muslim holy day, offices are still open. In addition to the usual Muslim holidays (variable dates), Kazakhstan has public holidays on 1 and 2 January, 7 January (Russian Christmas), 8 March (Women's Day), 22 March (Nauryz), 1 May, 9 May (Victory Day), 30 August (Constitution Day), 25 October (Republic Day) and 16 December (Independence Day).

Kazakhstan is so big it spans three time zones: Almaty and the east are GMT +6, but always check local times if travelling by train. Change local money before leaving, it's illegal to leave the country with any Tenge.

International dialling code for Kazakhstan is +7. Dialling out: 8 ~ 10 (wait for tone). National prefix (within Kazakhstan): 8.

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