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World / Asia / Iran / Tehran

A modern, cosmopolitan city at the foot of the Alborz Mountains, Tehran is Iran's political, intellectual and economic hub. Stunning museums and palace complexes, lively bazaars, atmospheric eateries, and flower-filled parks are just a few of its attractions.

Currency

Iranian Rial (IRR)

Visa Requirements

Visas are required for all foreign nationals

Language

Farsi

Timezone

GMT + 3.5

Weather

Dry, hot summers, and cold winters.

Dialling Code

00 98 21

Electricity

220 V

Health and Safety

There are no mandatory immunisations for Iran, but ensuring that your travel vaccinations are up to date is recommended. Medical facilities in the city are good, but be prepared to pay for all treatments in cash. Travel insurance, including medical cover, is essential. Women are required to wear a headscarf in public.

Most international flights to Tehran arrive at Imam Khomeini Airport, situated 30 km south of the city. A taxi into town costs about IR 100,000 and takes 90 minutes. Tehran's metro, like the city's extensive bus service, is inexpensive but often crowded. Taxis are cheap, and are the easiest and most comfortable way to get around the sprawling city.

National Jewels Museum

National Jewels Museum: Even if museums aren't normally your thing this dazzling bling-fest is worth a look in. The treasures on display in the underground vault, amassed from royal conquests by various Persian dynasties, include the famous Peacock Throne, encrusted with over 25,000 gems and the Sea of Light, a 182- carat pink diamond, thought to be the largest uncut diamond in the world.

Grand Bazaar

Grand Bazaar (Khordad Ave): Some call the bustling, chaotic bazaar the heart and soul of Tehran. Set aside a day in which to explore the alleyways overflowing with spices, sweets, carpets, gold, fake designer labels and artisans' stalls. A city within a city, the bazaar also encompasses mosques, teahouses, a handful of banks, and even a fire station.

Park-e-Laleh

Park-e-Laleh (Keshavarz Blvd): A green oasis in the heart of the city, the park is filled with rose-scented gardens, fountains, a lake (flanked by hot pink park benches), snack vendors, and a large outdoor gym. Popular with picnicking families, old men playing chess, students from the nearby university and discreetly flirting couples - it's a great place to people watch and unwind in the cool of the evening.

Quick Lunch - Nayeb

Locals love the tasty kebabs at the Nayeb restaurant. Alternatively try the dizi, a tasty stew of lamb, chickpeas and flatbread cooked and served in a stone jar, at the lunch-only Dizi Restaurant .

Top Table - Ali Ghapoo

For a sparkling night out, live music and the Persian classic, Fesenjan -chicken with pomegranate and walnut sauce over rice - head to the famous Ali Ghapoo restaurant.

Cheap Eat - Café 78

The hip, friendly Café 78 (Aban St, 0098 21 891 9862) serves fantastic sandwiches and snacks, great coffee and speciality teas. The décor reflects its bohemian patrons with contemporary art and photographs by Iranian artists gracing the walls.

On Business - The Homa Hotel

A 5-star establishment near Tehran's cultural, diplomatic and commercial centres, The Homa Hotel is a safe bet, with conference rooms, free Internet access and valet service, as well as a bank, shopping mall and travel agency.
Lap of luxury: The sumptuous boutique-style Melal Apartment Hotel, located in the wealthy northern part of the city, offers on-demand service and extensive facilities. Simply oozes style.
Book now

Cheap Sleep - Melal Apartment Hotel

: The Hotel Naderi is great value, fun and atmospheric too, with a retro 1950s feel. The quieter rooms at the back overlook a garden and are worth asking for.
Book now

Coffee And Chat - Dr. Hessabi Museum

The serene garden café at the Dr. Hessabi Museum (8 Dr. Hessabi St, 00 98 21 220 2006) in the wealthy northern district is an oasis of tranquillity.

Formal Presentation - Melal Apartment Hotel

The sleek conference room and business centre at the Melal Apartment Hotel (68 Naseri St, 0098 21 879 0543) are superbly equipped.

Evening Drinks - Agha Bozorg

Alcohol is officially banned, so do as the locals and visit a chaikhana (teahouse) to sip the brew, puff on a flavoured shisha pipe or snack on dizi. The lively Agha Bozorg (28 Keshavarz Blvd, 00 98 21 890 0522) fits the bill perfectly. If you simply must quench your thirst, try the Christian Armenian Club (68 Khark St, 00 98 21 670 0521). Off-limits to Iranian Muslims, visitors are permitted a drink with their meals- and if you are woman, you may remove your headscarf.

General Etiquette

As in all Middle Eastern countries, respect for and observance of Islam is central. Iran is the only official Shi'ite state and its people are in the majority Persian and not Arab.

Divisions between gender are just as important as elsewhere in the Middle East. Men and women work and socialise separately and introductions are generally made only to those of the same sex. If your female spouse or partner is accompanying you, always check that any invitations include them too.

The normal greeting is ‘Salam'. Reply with ‘Salam'. Always greet elders first as a mark of respect. Tables will generally be laid with spoon and fork. Remember to eat and pass dishes with the right hand.

The extended family is the cornerstone of life and will be at the centre of an Iranian's social and business network. Working with family members, using them to get special deals or favours or to get round the complexities of bureaucracy is regarded as a good thing.

Business etiquette

Appointments should be made well in advance. Confirm a week before and on arrival. When meeting people in a business context it's important to shake hands but only if your counterpart is the same gender. Men should wait to see if a woman extends her hand. If not, it's fine to nod and smile as an introduction. Visiting businesswomen should likewise take their cue from their hosts.

Stick to formal titles until your counterpart starts to call you by your first name. Men are referred to with the prefix Agha, women Khanoom. So Mr John Smith would be Agha-yeh-Smith, while Ms Sally Brown would be Khanoom-eh-Brown.

Conservative dress is recommended, but ties are not necessary. Few Iranians wear them, and they are actually illegal for officials of the Islamic Republic. Women should make sure head, ears and neck are covered with a scarf and the rest of the body with a long-sleeved loose dress.

You should always be punctual, even if your host is not. Be prepared to be kept waiting, especially by Government officials. Meetings begin with polite enquiries about health, family, and so on. Building a good personal relationship with your counterpart is important. Do not be put out by interruptions, which are normal. Be in no hurry to end the meeting. Try not to schedule back-to-back meetings, so that you have room to be flexible if things are going well.

Unusual business-related customs

Taarof is the display of extreme politeness that is routine in everyday dealings with others in Iran. If your counterpart insists that you walk first through a door, he is displaying taarof. Be careful not to take this surface show too literally. If offered more tea, more to eat or perhaps an invitation back to a person's home, always refuse initially. Only when the invitation is repeated at least twice should you take it seriously.

General business information

The business week runs Saturday to Wednesday 9am to 5pm and Thursdays half day . Some companies close on Thursday. Friday is a strict religious holiday when no business is done. Prayer breaks, three times daily, are advertised in the newspaper; those that affect the business visitor are the midday Dhuhr, the mid-afternoon Asr, and the early evening Maghrib (just after sunset).

Times to avoid in the year include Nouruz, the Iranian New Year which lasts for two to three weeks from 21 March and Ramadan, the month-long holy fast (dates vary each year), when business hours are short and restaurants close from dawn to dusk. Both Eid festivals also last for about three days.

Owing to the current US trade embargo, credit cards and travellers cheques are not acceptable forms of payment, even in the best hotels. Bring a plentiful supply of US dollars with you.

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