World / Africa / Ethiopia / Addis-Ababa

Founded by the Emperor Menelik II in the 1880s, Addis Ababa is the capital of Ethiopia, and home to the African Union (AU). The city's sprawling, dusty streets may not be beautiful, but the blend of colonial architecture, traditional settlements and cosmopolitan verve is exhilarating.

Birr (ETB)

All visitors require a visa. EU nationals, Australians, New Zealanders, Canadians and Americans can obtain a one-month entry visa on arrival at Bole International Airport

GMT +3

Addis Ababa's high elevation gives it a pleasant, mild climate, with average daily temperatures of around 25°C. June to September is the rainy season

00 251

220V European two-pin plugs are common

Hepatitis A, cholera, typhoid and yellow fever vaccines are recommended. Comprehensive travel and medical insurance is also advised. Violent crime is rare but visitors should watch out for petty theft. It's also advisable to steer clear of public demonstrations and large crowds

Flights to Addis Ababa arrive at Bole International Airport, situated five miles south east of the city centre. There is no public bus service into the city centre but taxis are available and cost 30 -50 Birr.

The Ethnological Museum (Algeria St): Stroll through the lush gardens of Addis Ababa University to this fascinating museum, set within a grand palace that once belonged to Haile Selassie. Here, you'll find vibrant displays on the art and culture of the majority of Ethiopia's local ethnic groups.

The National Museum (King George VI St): Some of the most important collections in sub-Saharan Africa are to be found here. They include wonderful Ethiopian art, Axumite statues, and a fascinating palaeontology exhibition containing a fully reconstructed skeleton of Lucy (known to the Ethiopians as Dinquinesh, meaning 'wonderful one'), a 3.2 million year old hominid, discovered in the Ethiopian Rift Valley in 1974.

Holy Trinity Cathedral (Piazza): This imposing, intricately decorated cathedral, which is the second most important place of worship in Ethiopia, looms large over the surrounding streets. Built to commemorate Ethiopia's liberation from Italian rule, the lavish interior features stunning ecclesiastical paintings and stained glass windows. It's here that the Emperor Haile Selassie was laid to rest. Look out for his majestic granite tomb.

Ristorante Castelli, which dishes up homemade pasta in an old-fashioned Italian trattoria, is reputed to be the best in Addis. Locals are very fond of this place and it has hosted celebrities from Bob Geldof, to former President Jimmy Carter.

You can tell Habesha Restaurant (Bole Rd) is special as soon as you walk into the candlelit, incense-scented dining room. For delicious and beautifully presented food, live music and traditional dancing, this place really hits the spot.

Evian's (Hailesilase St) is a welcoming, bustling cafe which serves cheap and tasty burgers, sandwiches, chips and coffees.

The modern, centrally located Addis Ababa Hilton has good quality rooms, Wi-Fi Internet access in public areas, excellent business facilities and a couple of good restaurants.

The opulent Sheraton Hotel has serious wow factor including elaborate landscaped grounds, an impossibly grand ballroom, gold plated furnishings, excellent restaurants and a top-class spa.

Extreme Hotel is not the cheapest in the city but offers the best value for money. This crisp, clean hotel has great rooms, Internet access and a fitness centre.

Sip on aromatic Ethiopian coffee and much top-notch pastries at City Caf and Pastry (Bole Rd). Perfect for an early morning chat, it opens at 7am.

The Addis Ababa Hilton (Menelik II Ave, 00 251 11 517 0000), opposite the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, has four meeting rooms and an executive lounge.

Enjoy an Ethiopian beer with a view on the terrace of the stylish Top View Restaurant (Bole Rd, 00 251 11 551 4193).

The one country in Africa that was never colonised, Ethiopia maintains its own strong identity and culture. Amharic is the official language, but Oromifaa, the language of the major Oromo group, is also widely spoken, as is Tigrinya, among 80 others. Though English is taught in secondary schools, it is not widely spoken. There are roughly equal numbers of Muslims and Christians of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Greetings are important in Ethiopia, both socially and in business, and can often be extensive, with many enquiries into health and family welfare. Shake hands whenever you say hello, and don't be surprised if this is a softer grip than at home. Ethiopian men often touch with shoulders as well as shaking hands. When greeting elders, Ethiopians may bow. As an outsider, you are not expected to follow this behaviour. You address someone by their title and their first given name. Surnames don't really exist here. The last name is usually the name of the father. There are numerous local greetings, but to ask how someone is, say denaneh? to a man or denanish? to a woman. The reply, to both, is dehana (pronounced dena). Saying goodbye it's probably easiest to use chau (pronounced like ciao). Another useful word to know is ishee, which means OK, but is useful in numerous circumstances, even as an alternative way of saying hello or goodbye. If an Ethiopian nods their head slowly up and down as you speak, this does not necessarily mean yes, more likely, ‘I am listening, keep talking.' If invited to a meal where people are using their hands, remember always to use the right hand only to eat and pass things. If the plate is communal, take food from the area immediately in front of you. Like Muslims, Orthodox Christians do not eat pork, or any meat on most Wednesdays or Fridays through out the year. Foreigners are known as faranji. As a faranji, you may well be targeted by an unofficial guide who will be keen to show you round. At the end of the tour, they will expect payment. If you are hassled by a street trader, the word alfelagem will politely make it clear that you don't want what they are offering. Be aware also that the word for ‘talk' (techawot) is the same that for play', so if an Ethiopian sits next to you and asks you if you want to play, they probably only want a conversation.

Business dress is conservative: formal suit and tie or equivalent. Business cards are useful. Meetings should be arranged well in advance and confirmed nearer the time. Contrary to practice in many African countries, punctuality is important here so you should be on time. As elsewhere in the region, the establishing of a personal relationship is central to doing business.

Ethiopia follows the Julian (Coptic) calendar, which has twelve thirty-day months and a thirteenth month of five or six days. This results in a seven-year difference between the Coptic and Gregorian (Western) calendar. The day begins at sunrise, 6 am, so is six hours behind Western time. Business, however, is generally done according to the Western calendar.

The working week is Monday to Friday 8.30am to 5.30pm. There are public holidays on Muslim and Orthodox Coptic festivals. Coptic Christmas is on 7 January, Epiphany (Timket) on 20 January. There are also national holidays on 2 March (Adwa Day), 5 May (Victory Day) and 28 May (Downfall of the Dergue) as well as the Ethiopian New Year on 11 September and the ancient Meskel holiday on 27 September. International dialling code: +251