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World / Africa / Egypt / Cairo

Home to 20 million people, Cairo is the biggest city in Africa. Its streets are constantly abuzz, with layers of history interweaved with daily life in a frenetic, everyday circus of noise and activity. It's guaranteed to knock you sideways.

Currency

Egyptian pound (LE)

Visa Requirements

Visas can be bought in advance (£15, www.egyptianconsulate.co.uk). A visa on arrival costs less (around US$17) but can take some time at the airport to process

Language

Arabic, with English widely understood

Timezone

GMT+2

Weather

Very hot summers; mild winters

Dialling Code

00 20

Electricity

220V, with European-style round-pin plugs

Health and Safety

No immunizations or vaccinations required. Private hospitals are preferable to public ones and comprehensive travel insurance is recommended. Tap water is best avoided. Bottled water is widely available.

Flights to Cairo arrive at Cairo International Airport. Beware of taxi touts and bogus 'Ministry of Tourism' reps hanging around Cairo Airport arrivals and the medina: however friendly they seem, just say no. Public buses head into town for pennies but it's easier to take a taxi (LE50) or a limousine (LE80).

The Pyramids and the Sphinx

The Pyramids and the Sphinx (Giza). Cairo's iconic monuments, located on the western fringe of the city, are a mind-bending 4,500 years old. No matter how familiar you think they'll be, seeing these gigantic structures up close is simply breathtaking. Come early in the morning (8am), to avoid the crowds and heat – or, even better, in late afternoon when the desert sunset is a sight to behold.

Egyptian Museum

Egyptian Museum (Tahrir Square). This is the largest repository of Pharaonic artefacts in the world, though the century-old building, situated on one of Cairo's busiest squares, is now hopelessly cramped and tricky to navigate. To make the most of your visit, take the two-hour guided tour (about LE120), which includes Tutankhamun's gold death mask.

Khan el-Khalili

Khan El Khalili. For a shopping experience like no other, head into the medina where you'll find the souks of this vast bazaar. The gold souks and labyrinth of stalls piled high with spices, perfumes and jewellery are the star attractions. If something catches your eye, bargain hard, and be prepared for endless invitations to sit and drink tea. Leave valuables in your hotel.

Quick Lunch - Aura

Savour Lebanese cuisine at Aura, an easygoing poolside restaurant offering superb mezze as well as grills and kebabs.

Top Table - Le Pacha 1901

The boat Le Pacha 1901, moored on the Nile in Zamalek, hosts ten separate restaurants, all outstanding. For succulent steaks, an extensive wine list and romantic Nile views, dine at the French-style bistro, Le Steak.

Cheap Eat - Abou Tarek

Cairo's classic streetfood is ‘koshary', a mix of rice, lentils, macaroni and fried onions, with chilli sauce. Abou Tarek, just off Tahrir Square, has the best in town.

On Business - Grand Hyatt

The Grand Hyatt is a serene, Nile-side luxury hotel offering, among other attractions, the Middle East's highest revolving restaurant, on the 41st floor.
Book now

Lap Of Luxury - Mena House Oberoi

Occupying a privileged position at the foot of the Great Pyramid, the Mena House Oberoi is a former 19th-century hunting lodge with classic good looks updated with 21st-century facilities. The views, needless to say, are breathtaking.
Book now

Cheap Sleep - The Windsor

As featured in Michael Palin's TV adventures and numerous costume dramas, The Windsor is a colonial-era hotel of great character. Rooms are plain, but you're buying into the atmosphere.
Book now

Coffee And Chat - No Big Deal

Drop in to No Big Deal (1A El Sayed El Bakry St), a friendly Zamalek coffee shop serving California-style frappuccinos, juices and light bites.

Formal Presentation - Cairo Marriott Hotel

The vast Cairo Marriott Hotel (16 Saraya El Gezira Street, 00 20 227 283 000) has the classiest meeting rooms in town. The former palace of the Empress Eugenie is now a modern, upmarket haven.

Evening Drinks - Abu as-Sid

Also an upscale restaurant, Abu as-Sid (157 26th July St, 00 20 273 5 96 40) offers oriental-style lounging amidst the coolest of Cairo's beautiful people and the sharpest of its new thinkers.

General Etiquette

Islam is the official religion of Egypt. Over 90% of the population are Sunni Muslims. This percolates into all aspects of expected behaviour. You should always dress modestly, be respectful about use of alcohol (especially during Ramadam) and be aware of prayer breaks, five times daily. A man meeting a woman for the first time should wait for her to extend a hand. Otherwise, same gender handshakes should be firm, ideally accompanied by eye contact and a smile. The normal greeting is salamu ‘aleiko (‘Peace be upon you'), to which the reply is wa ‘aleikom el salam (‘And peace be upon you too'). If offered the greeting, it's rude not to reply.

The Egyptians are a very polite people and good manners are essential. When you add to this the idea that people here dislike loosing face, you may find that people will try and oblige you, even to the point of misleading you. (Be careful, therefore, if there is any doubt or hesitation over street directions.)

Family is at the centre of life here. To be invited to someone's home is an honour, and you should always accept. The right gift to bring is pastries or a cake for dessert. Alcohol is a no-no and flowers are only likely to appreciated in Westernised homes. Arrive a little after the set time and be prepared to wait until all the guests have turned up before the meal is served. All the food will be put on the table in one go and you should wait to be served. When you've had enough, leaving a little food on your plate will indicate this. Dessert generally follows in a separate area.

Egyptians generally sit and stand closer than many Westerners are used to so try not to move away. Same-sex conversations can be more touchy-feely than you might be used to. If you sit alone in an empty bus or cinema the next person who comes in may well sit next to you but this doesn't mean that they want to talk to you or get to know you.

Business Etiquette

Business dress is conservative, a formal suit and tie or equivalent. Women should avoid revealing clothes. Business cards are essential. Having yours translated into Arabic on one side will go down well and make you stand out. Titles are important and should be used. A failure to do so might be perceived as arrogance. Otherwise use Ustaz or Mr followed by your counterpart's first name. Meetings should be arranged well in advance and confirmed nearer the time. You should aim to be punctual yourself but don't expect your counterpart to be. Meetings may well be interrupted by phone calls or other visitors. This does not signify that your business is not being taken seriously. As in all countries in the Arab world, the establishing of a personal relationship is central to doing business. Who you know really does matter. In this region they talk about having wasta (connections). A local partner can help make contacts and cut through the red tape that is still a feature of life here. Management style is generally top-down, with bosses making the decisions. Don't become frustrated if things take time as this is normal. Also trying to hurry things with deadlines and ultimatums is likely to work against you.

Unusual Business-Related Attitude

With their famous sense of humour, Egyptians often talk about the IBM mentality, where I stands for Insha'allah (God willing), B stands for Bukra (tomorrow) and M stands for Ma'alesh (Don't worry). Which is to say, something will only happen if God wills it and things take as long as they take even if they're not looking good now, things will turn out for the best. You will hear Insha'allah a lot as it's almost obligatory when attached to future commitments.

General business information

The working week is officially Sunday to Thursday but many firms work also on Saturday. On Friday, the Muslim holy day, all businesses are closed. Business hours are 9am to 5pm, though some small businesses start and end later. In addition to the Muslim religious festivals (Eid-al-Fitr and Eid-al-Adha, Birth of Mohammed and Islamic New Year, variable dates), Egypt has holidays on 7 January (Coptic Christmas), Easter (variable dates), 1 May (Labour), 23 July (National), 6 October (Armed Forces). There are a string of other holidays that are widely but not officially celebrated. Ramadam is best avoided for business. International dialling code: +20

General business information

The working week is officially Sunday to Thursday but many firms work also on Saturday. On Friday, the Muslim holy day, all businesses are closed. Business hours are 9am to 5pm, though some small businesses start and end later. In addition to the Muslim religious festivals (Eid-al-Fitr and Eid-al-Adha, Birth of Mohammed and Islamic New Year, variable dates), Egypt has holidays on 7 January (Coptic Christmas), Easter (variable dates), 1 May (Labour), 23 July (National), 6 October (Armed Forces). There are a string of other holidays that are widely but not officially celebrated. Ramadam is best avoided for business. International dialling code: +20

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