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World / Europe / Russia / Moscow

Its post-Soviet hedonism is notorious, but Moscow can be frustrating for first-timers. Head off the beaten track to find the real city, with its historic monuments, classic art, and working class heroes hidden among the glitz and neon of Putin's new Russia.

Currency

Ruble (RUB)

Visa Requirements

Visas are essential for all US, EU and commonwealth citizens and must be purchased before travel.

Language

Russian

Timezone

Russian

Weather

Moscow weather can be extreme, from -10°C in January to 35°C or above in July. Spring and autumn are moderate and dry

Dialling Code

00 7 495 or 499

Electricity

220V. European two-pin plugs are standard

Health and Safety

Ambulance and emergency services are free but very basic, making comprehensive travel and medical insurance cover essential.

Useful Links

Ambulance and emergency services are free but very basic, making comprehensive travel and medical insurance cover essential.

Bmi flights to Moscow arrive at Domodedovo Airport, situated 14 miles southeast of the city. The official taxi desk charges 1,900RUB: but with rush-hour journeys of over two hours, smart travellers take the train. Aeroexpress (150RUB) operates direct services to Paveletskaya metro station every hour (every 30 minutes at peak times), with a journey time of 50 minutes.

The Museums of the Moscow Kremlin

The Museums of the Moscow Kremlin (The Kremlin, Moscow, 007 495 203 0349/202 3776): Its Assumption Cathedral holds the throne of Ivan the Terrible, and the Archangel Cathedral the graves of the Romanov Tsars: but the real treasures (including Faberge eggs and the gems of the Diamond Fund) are in the Armoury, and tickets sell out fast. Bypass the tour groups and go after lunch.

Sandunovsky Bani

Sandunovsky Bani (Neglinnaya Ulitsa d. 14 bldgs. 3-7, 007 495 625 4631): These are Moscow's oldest sauna and steam baths and the most ornate, complete with a marble-pillared swimming pool in the men's section. While a two-hour communal session costs as little as 600RUB, for real luxury book your own private banya - complete with pool - from 2,000RUB.

The Tagansky Protected Command Point

The Tagansky Protected Command Point: Discover the full extent of the city's Cold War neurosis at this 1950s former communications centre. Built to house thousands of the military top brass for up to three months, it lies 65 metres below ground. Guided tours include films covering its construction, and the Russian take on the history of the Cold War.

Quick Lunch - Cafe Pushkin

Designed in the style of a 19th century townhouse Cafe Pushkin (Tverskoi Bulvar d. 26a 007 495 739 0033) remains a magnet for the business elite, and serves some of the city's best Russian cuisine.

Top Table - Jeroboam

With a three-starred Michelin chef, the Jeroboam restaurant at the Ritz hotel (Tverskaya Ulitsa d. 3, 007 495 225 8888) sets the standard in gourmet dining.

Cheap Eat - Goodmans

Escape this frenetic city for the English-country calm of Goodmans (Tverskaya Ulitsa d. 23, 007 495 775 9888). It serves steaks, burgers, salads, and bargain-priced weekday lunches and the walled garden is open in summer.

On Business - Hotel Ulanskaya

Recently refurbished, with western-standard décor throughout, the Hotel Ulanskaya is one of the city's few reasonably priced business hotels.
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Lap Of Luxury - Metropol Hotel

Once home to the Bolshevik Revolutionary Committee, the stained-glass ceilings and fin de sciecle luxury of the Metropol Hotel have been expertly restored.
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Cheap Sleep - Sovietsky Hotel

The Sovietsky Hotel is one of the city's most historic venues - north of town but steps from the metro - in a meticulously preserved Stalinist building, with half-price rates at weekends.
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Coffee And Chat - Le Pain Quotidien

Moscow's business community gathers at Le Pain Quotidien (Kamergersky Pereulok d. 6, 007 495 937 7742) for French home-cooking from 7am.

Formal Presentation - Baltschug Kempinski

The Baltschug Kempinski (Ulitsa Balchug d. 1, 007 495 287 2000) offers Kremlin views and the most competent event management team in town.

Evening Drinks - GQ Bar

Drink cool cocktails with the “elitny” business crowd at GQ Bar (Ulitsa Balchug d. 5, 007 495 956 7775), open round the clock.

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