World / Asia / Lebanon

It's probably fair to say that few people, even the most intrepid of travellers, think of holidays in Lebanon as a good idea. This is a country that, in the last four decades, has become a byword for civil strife and instability. In Lebanon, tourism is for now in the doldrums. And yet, this thin slice of land is still a beautiful – and often highly cosmopolitan – part of the world. True, the economy, long built on banking, is somewhat fragile, partly as a result of the 33-day war with Israel in 2006 that unpicked the stitches on what had been a remarkable tale of resurgence since the end of the civil war in 1990.

But it only takes an hour in the capital, Beirut, for visitors to wonder what the fuss is about. Downtown, Hamra, Ashrafieh and Verdun – the key business areas, but also packed with shops, bars and cafes – are abuzz with everyday life. Place de l'Etoile is a perfect spot for coffee and people-watching, while Ramlet El Baida is a glorious sun-kissed beach. There are also myriad attractions beyond Beirut. Byblos, up the coast, is a history-soaked ancient city with UNESCO World Heritage status- as is Tyre, a little to the south. Then there are the ski resorts – yes, ski resorts – in the mountains to the east, including the excellent Mzaar. If ever a country were ripe for reappraisal, Lebanon is surely it.